Smaller gatherings. Smaller Thanksgiving. Smaller turkeys?

Kristin Schwab Oct 23, 2020
Heard on: Marketplace
John Peterson, a third-generation turkey farmer, is slaughtering birds earlier to meet consumer demand for smaller turkeys. Courtesy John Peterson

Smaller gatherings. Smaller Thanksgiving. Smaller turkeys?

Kristin Schwab Oct 23, 2020
John Peterson, a third-generation turkey farmer, is slaughtering birds earlier to meet consumer demand for smaller turkeys. Courtesy John Peterson

John Peterson’s family has been in the turkey business for 80 years in Cannon Falls, Minnesota. And getting ready for Thanksgiving — the turkey industry equivalent of the Super Bowl — is usually pretty routine.

Not this year. Thanksgiving is typically all about big. It’s the biggest travel week of the year, there are big family gatherings, there is the big family meal, and at its center is often a big bird. But this year, people are expected to gather in smaller groups and have smaller dinners. So grocery stores have been pressing suppliers for smaller turkey and more of them.

The problem is turkey farming is a science. The birds are engineered to reach Thanksgiving size at Thanksgiving. For Peterson, who sells his turkey under the name Ferndale Market, that sweet spot is about 18 pounds. And he can’t just flip a switch and change that.

“We’re working with nature, and we only have so much control over their rate of growth,” Peterson said. “And when their hatch date was determined a year in advance, a lot of that cake was baked before we had the chance to change it.”

Peterson has slaughtered some of this birds early, at around 12 pounds. But that comes at a cost. He’s had to rent extra freezer space to store the turkeys. Plus, he’s really a free-range, fresh turkey farmer. Those birds go for about 40 cents more per pound than frozen. And selling any birds at a lower weight means there are fewer pounds to sell.

Betting on leftovers

It’s why the industry is on a mission to keep the demand for big turkeys alive by marketing the idea that cooks will be blessed — not stuck — with leftovers.

“If anyone’s like me, I’ve been cooking more than I’d like to over the past few months,” said the National Turkey Federation’s Beth Breeding. “So I’ll definitely take a break with some great turkey leftovers.”

Some of the recipes on the association’s website: turkey eggs benedict, turkey tandoori kabobs and Korean turkey dumplings.

If you’re not a fan of turkey for breakfast, lunch and dinner, there are alternatives to the big bird. Turkey producers, like Butterball, have ramped up production of smaller products, like boneless roasts that weigh in at about 3 pounds. They’re also offering more turkey parts and products that cook in their own bag. The idea isn’t just to appeal to cooks with fewer people to feed, but first-time hosts who may be intimidated by a whole bird.

“It helps people who are like, ‘Boy, I’m a little bit nervous about how you attack this whole thing,'” said Kyle Lock, senior director of retail marketing at Butterball. “The centerpiece of this thing has to be right, right?”

Meal kit options

The meal kit industry, which has received a boost during the pandemic, is also looking to help cooks get their holiday meals across the finish line. Companies like Blue Apron, HelloFresh and Home Chef are all offering special Thanksgiving boxes.

Despite all the competition, Minnesota farmer John Peterson is still banking on families going the traditional route.

“Maybe we’re just trying to delude ourselves, but I do think there are reasons to think that now more than ever people are craving tradition,” he said. “So we’re optimistic that people aren’t going to be, you know, eating ham sandwiches with their green bean casserole on Thanksgiving.”

In the end, it all comes down to who will be stuck with the leftovers — the turkey industry or us?

COVID-19 Economy FAQs

Pfizer said early data show its coronavirus vaccine is effective. So what’s next?

In the last few months, Pfizer and its partner BioNTech have shared other details of the process including trial blueprints, the breakdown of the subjects and ethnicities and whether they’re taking money from the government. They’re being especially transparent in order to try to temper public skepticism about this vaccine process. The next big test, said Jennifer Miller at the Yale School of Medicine, comes when drug companies release their data, “so that other scientists who the public trust can go in, replicate findings, and communicate them to the public. And hopefully build appropriate trust in a vaccine.”

How is President-elect Joe Biden planning to address the COVID-19 pandemic and the economic turmoil it’s created?

On Nov. 9, President-Elect Joe Biden announced three co-chairs of his new COVID-19 task force. But what kind of effect might this task force have during this transition time, before Biden takes office? “The transition team can do a lot to amplify and reinforce the messages of scientists and public health experts,” said Dr. Kelly Moore, associate director for the Immunization Action Coalition. Moore said Biden’s COVID task force can also “start talking to state leaders and other experts about exactly what they need to equip them to roll out the vaccines effectively.”

What does slower retail sales growth in October mean for the economy?

It is a truism that we repeat time and again at Marketplace: As goes the U.S. consumer, so goes the U.S. economy. And recently, we’ve been seeing plenty of signs of weakness in the consumer economy. Retail sales were up three-tenths of a percent in October, but the gain was weaker than expected and much weaker than September’s. John Leer, an economist at Morning Consult, said a lack of new fiscal stimulus from Congress is dampening consumers’ appetite to spend. So is the pandemic.

Read More


As a nonprofit news organization, our future depends on listeners like you who believe in the power of public service journalism.

Your investment in Marketplace helps us remain paywall-free and ensures everyone has access to trustworthy, unbiased news and information, regardless of their ability to pay.

Donate today — in any amount — to become a Marketplace Investor. Now more than ever, your commitment makes a difference.