This final note today.

The chicken industry’s fluffing its feathers over dark meat these days. Apparently the lowly thigh and drumstick are now the cool kids on the culinary block, and demand for dark chicken meat in grocery stores and restaurants is way up. Seems it’s partly because TV chefs have been pushing thighs and chicken legs over the once-popular chicken breast. They claim dark meat’s just more succulent and not that much fattier.

Problem is, America’s chickens have been bred to be, well, top-heavy. As one food writer put it: they’re like “Mad Men”‘s Joan on top, and model Kate Moss on the bottom.