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Your Thanksgiving turkey is probably a product of artificial insemination

Turkeys stand in a barn. Americans will probably eat 40 million turkeys this month -- most of them won't be naturally reproduced.

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Kai Ryssdal: Time now for a little Freakonomics Radio. It's that moment every two weeks where we talk to Stephen Dubner, the co-author of the books and the blog of the same name. It's about the hidden side of everything. Dubner, welcome back.

Stephen Dubner: Hey Kai, thanks. I've got a little Thanksgiving quiz for you. Are you up for that?

Ryssdal: No, I don't do quizzes. It's my show. All right, what?

Dubner: Well, I'm going to force you to.

Ryssdal: All right.

Dubner: All right, here we go. Americans will probably eat about 40 million turkeys this month. Now, I hope this doesn't kill your appetite, but what percentage of those 40 million birds do you think were the product of artificial insemination?

Ryssdal: Really? That's the question?

Dubner: That's the question. It is really the question this week.

Ryssdal: All right, 82.6? I don't know.

Dubner: That's a great guess, great guess. The truth is it's actually pretty close to 100 percent.

Ryssdal: Really? So there's no, like, turkey sex going on?

Dubner: Well let's unravel this. Let me ask you this, Kai: When you roast your family turkey, what ends up being the most popular meat that everybody wants?

Ryssdal: Always the white meat. It's the breast meat, always.

Dubner: Always the white meat.

Ryssdal: Yeah.

Dubner: My family, the same. Now some people would say that's just because you want to increase the surface area for gravy. But whatever the case, Americans love their white meat. And this goes back to the 1950s, when traditional turkeys got pushed out by a breed called the broad-breasted white, which grows bigger and faster than the traditional bird. And that broad-breasted white has been selectively bred to have the largest breasts possible.

There's just one problem with this and I'm going to let Julie Long from the USDA explain it to you.

Julie Long: The modern turkey has quite large turkey breasts, and it actually physically gets in the way when the male and the female try to create offspring.

Ryssdal: Create offspring. Come on, really? Did she just say that? So it gets in the way, I guess.

Dubner: On your air.

Ryssdal: Yeah, I know right? And my mother's listening, too. So they can't, you know, do it?

Dubner: That's exactly right. It's tragic, isn't it, if you think about it? And as a result, the turkey industry is built around artificial insemination, which is a very labor-intensive and hands-on process. Here's the way it works: A team of workers has to pick up each male breeder, the tom, which might weigh as much as 70 pounds, secure his contribution -- as they call it in the trade -- and then bring that to the hen house to inseminate each hen. And then keep in mind -- with such an intense consumer demand for turkey -- this is not a once-a-year event. Here's Julie Long again from the USDA.

Long: So that means once a week, five to six months, you have to go work with the males and then go work with the females in order to produce the meat that goes out for the consumer.

Ryssdal: OK, so a couple of things, I love this in its entirety. One, who knew that girl turkeys were called hens? Two, I loved the way that she said "work with," "work with them." But three, this is also conceivably, just to get back to the business thing here, it's a jobs program. Right? You need people to go work with these turkeys.

Dubner: That is a bright side, absolutely a silver lining. Now keep in mind, if you don't like this idea, and you want to serve your family a turkey this Thanksgiving that's the product of natural, old-fashioned turkey reproduction, then you might turn to what's called a heritage turkey. Here's Cyndi Muller, who raises heritage birds in Illinois. But keep in mind, as she makes clear, Kai, it'll cost you.

Cyndi Muller: I know in some parts of the country, the price of a heritage bird for your Thanksgiving table can be over $150, $200 for a bird.

Ryssdal: No way!

Dubner: Way. Way.

Ryssdal: Really? That's a lot of money.

Dubner: Yeah, it's a lot. Well over triple, let's say, what you would pay for a big bird.

Ryssdal: Just to have a little fun in life, right?

Dubner: That's exactly right. I mean look, the holidays are supposed to be a feel-good time.

Ryssdal: Stop. Stop.

Dubner: So you may decide that instead of making yourself feel good by dropping, let's say $100 in the Salvation Army bucket, you might want to spend that $100 subsidizing the right of some male to turkey to, well, you know, have a better holiday.

Ryssdal: And females, it should be said. And females.

Dubner: There you go.

Ryssdal: Freakonomics.com is the website, that's where you send all the hate mail this week. Stephen Dubner, we'll see you in a couple of weeks.

Dubner: Thanks Kai, happy eating.

Ryssdal: Uh yeah, I don't know about that.

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Girlfriend in a Coma's picture
Girlfriend in a Coma - Nov 24, 2011

Knowing about the conditions in which we farm animals, nothing could shake my dedication to bacon...until now. Thanks for the final push into vegetarianism. Who knew it would take meta-turkey basting to do it???

punkedteacher's picture
punkedteacher - Nov 22, 2011

I am appalled that you whiny, pathetic, leftists don't understand that mankind is an omnivore, there are 7 billion of us, and every single one of us has to eat. Turkeys as "sentient beings" -- baloney! Artificial insemination as animal abuse? Ridiculous! Fowl as part of the "99%?" Absolutely insane.

Let me disabuse you of a few faulty ideas.

First: food animal lives have intrinsic value in and of their own right. This is false. These animals wouldn't even have the chance to *exist* if the turkey farmers did not bring them into being. No food turkey waits in his pen, longing for the miracle of flight or the opportunity to hunt in the wild because THEY DON'T HAVE THOSE INSTINCTS. What they are is some deserving family's dinner on two legs and nothing more.

Second: animal mass production is cruel. False again. Food animals are not pets. They are not African Grey parrots or chimpanzees with a significant degree of intellect. Their primary redeeming quality is they produce meat. There is no society of animals that goes wanting for their intellectual contributions. They are merely a transitive state between grain and a wholesome meal for human beings. For many of us, their existence is the difference between a healthy, wholesome life and starvation. Never forget this: a vegetarian diet for the whole population of the earth would be unsustainable.
Third: food animals have "rights." Once again, false. Food animals are not human beings, no matter how hard you try to anthropomorphize them. They are stupid creatures utterly dependent upon their human caretakers for every aspect of their existence. Were they to be released into the wild, they would perish almost instantly, as they lack basic survival instincts, sufficient 'natural' sources of food, or the medical care necessary to ensure their short existence.

It's time to let this tired idea go, PETA. Go home, cuddle your dog and cat, pet your ferret, and feed the squirrels in your back yards. But take even BETTER care of the human beings around you. And stop acting like food animals' brief lives are anything but a matter of necessity for humankind's survival and growth. Look after a poor family's needs with the energy you expend worrying about farm animals. Remember that 99% you claim to so desperately care about? How about you spend a little more time worrying about THEM, rather than turkeys, forchrissake!

Bea Elliott's picture
Bea Elliott - Nov 21, 2011

In all this juvenile banter about the "big secret" about turkey-sex (or lack thereof) - The hosts failed to mention the final cruelty bestowed on these for-profit-machined beings... Their deaths are completely absent from any "humane" slaughter guidance. Not that it makes a big difference anyway - But being that these guys think everything's so funny about their man-made hell-fate - You'd think they'd include that as a little laugh.

The meat, egg and dairy industries commit the most brutal acts on sentient beings. The idea that people support them leaves a bad taste in my mouth. Not only during these "celebrations" but throughout the year as well. None of it is necessary! Happily we can thrive on a plant based diet. With much better health and much more compassion for it.

Delicia in the NY country's picture
Delicia in the ... - May 14, 2013

First let me say I am a female aged 60. Have lived in a family who hunts respectfully and give thanks to that which sustains us whether animal or a leafy green because our belief is that all things contain life. Take a real good look at nature and you will see what I mean. Sorry Bea, but I disagree AS LONG AS the animals raised for food consumption are raised healthfully,naturally as possible, and humanely whether or not the their necks get chopped in the end. Just because you're a plant eater gives you no right to "hit" anyone who isn't. I am a meat eater and if I were to change it would be because of my faith which respects all life in its many forms, including plants. So shall I not eat at all? In recent years I have noticed a great change towards how our meat is raised. People are going more organic with free range chickens and turkeys or raising their own. The same with other forms of meat. Just because something doesn't bleed does not mean it has no life. If you want to preach at anyone preach at the ones guilty of cramming animals or breeding animals unhealthily or to abnormal porportions, Monsanto chemical who do a lot of genetically modifying among others,and there are those who use steroids, etc. But don't preach to us meat eaters.In my opinion, people such as yourself and me should really focus on genetically modifying which is used on both plants and animals which can harm us and our children. Now let's take it one step further. Are you as concerned for ocean life as you are domesticated animals that are purposely raised to feed the masses? Because if your not not you should be. Our oceans cover at least 98% of the earth. Endangered whales are being slaughtered for their meat, shark are being decimated towards the point of endangerment for shark fin soup and dumped back into the oceans ALIVE,dolphins and porpoises are being slaughtered by the thousands INHUMANELY some are still alive when their baby is cut out of them, the Bluefin tuna is on the brink of extinction, and so are salmon, the Giant Clam which feed thousand of different types of ocean life when they reproduce have been decimated, as well as many other creatures of our vast oceans. And you know what? With worldwide over population, non usage of birth control, killing off endangered wildlife on land and sea when that ecological chain is irreparably broken and we humans won't have the green life you eat because the weather will have changed drastically.Nor will you have to worry about "sentient" farm raised animals being eaten by us omnivores because the earth will be pretty barren altogether.....no rain, unhealthy air, fires because everything will be parched. Life as we know it will be a living hell, at least for those who do survive. So while you eat your Tofurkey or tofu stir fry or a portabella mushroom sandwich grilled get online and do what you can to save our only home, planet earth, like I do when I'm eating a hot turkey and gravy sandwich with mashed potatoes,stuffing, and a veggie. Since you have a bad taste in your mouth because of "us people who support meat eating and the killing of what you call sentient beings" sweeten it with some kindness by using it in a truly purposeful way.

gemcat1's picture
gemcat1 - Nov 20, 2011

I am appalled that animal abuse can be considered a subject to joke about. Abuse does not just cover beating a dog to death or shutting a cat into a room and leaving it to starve, it includes genetically changing an animal to one that would not exist naturally.

I did not find this funny or amusing, I found it akin to beastiality which is banned in most states. The fear, the inhumanity, the pain, the mental and emotional suffering which, if the turkey was human, would have groups such as Amnesty standing outside the shed and demanding that Obama use his position to deal with the abuses.

emme22's picture
emme22 - Nov 20, 2011

At some point, folks will wake up to the fact that all of these poor animals are also the 99 percent.

Elliot's picture
Elliot - Nov 19, 2011

Like others, I decry the tone that your recent story on turkeys took. NPR and Marketplace had a choice here: to approach the question of turkey consumption and insemination as an adolescent or as an adult. Sadly you chose the former, complete with sniggering about whether turkeys can "do it", emphasis on the female turkeys "big breasts", and "working with" the males. Shame.

You had a chance to elevate our thinking here. Wouldn't it have been a much better choice to use this moment - right before Thanksgiving - to highlight the inhumanity of these practices; the horror that these sentient beings experience; and the insensitivity of too many of us who consume the flesh brought to us in this manner? If one of your purposes is to educate - and it is - then you certainly informed us about the practices, but you fell completely short of your responsibility by not even implying that there is anything questionable (much less wrong) with them, and not even mentioning alternatives like tofu turkey, plant-based meals, or other ways to respect our animal friends. If we agree that certain animals - e.g., dogs and cats - should be treated well, why can we not agree on that for other animals? Without becoming a mouthpiece for animal advocacy or animal rights, you could have presented a balanced picture rather than taking us into the gutter.

Delicia in the NY country's picture
Delicia in the ... - May 14, 2013

Perhaps you are correct in the manner in which this was discussed. However; keep your vegetarian ways to yourself. I am a meat eater. I revere all things in life that are living...including a tofu bean for each bean creates another plant. As I said in another reply, just because it doesn't bleed does not mean it is not a life and that goes for your soy beans you veggies are so fond of. I DO BELIEVE however in humane practices. Raising the animals as healthfully as possible is a must, and many are slowly going that route. Yes, the end result is that a turkey gets its neck chopped off and it should be, if done right, bled out. So tell me, how different is that from other life forms such as soybeans, wheat grass, herbs....even they sing their own song in the world of the living and they too have their use. The juice from wheat grass is its life giving "blood" but I see many have no problem with that as wheat grass hasn't a heart, or red blood, or eyes. My issue is how the animals are raised and treated despite that in the end they will die to feed the masses just as your soybeans are ripped from the earth washed and processed. Should all of us not eat for crying out loud? This thing between Veggies and Meaties is ridiculous. The more important issue should be how all of our food is raised, how we treat it, and how we give respect to it for sustaining our lives. Please, if you get an email on this come back and read my other reply. As for the dog and cats remark :while it is true that dogs and cats are regarded here as pets and are in most cases protected please do not forget that in other countries they are a source of food as well whereby in some countries a cow is regarded as religious and are never butchered. They are not off the menu in some countries. I know of no one on this earth that can say what animal has a soul and those that do not. What I do know is that some animals are exceedingly smart. I also know that they can feel pain, but so do plants and that has been proven. So, just because your soybean doesn't bleed red or have a beating heart it is okay to eat it? Catch my drift? We all have to eat whether we are Meaties or Veggies. It's about how we respect our food and that includes the proper raising of it. So my suggestion to you as it was to the other person is fight against the people directly who raise our food {including plant foods} by not crowding, or breeding abnormal sized parts, or using chemicals, steroids, pesticides, and are genetically modified. Stuff your face how you will but use your mouth to do more than promote being vegan. I'm all for animals being raised cleanly, healthfully, and humanely just as I am for the plant world but in the end we all must eat. Turkey or Tofurkey that is NOT the question. It is a choice which neither should foist upon the other. There are more important issues in the world, like saving endangered species on land and in our oceans. And of all the species in the world the one species I have hardly any respect for {but still hope for} is the species of homo sapien. We are killing ourselves through greed, stupidity, crapping on our own home world, and breeding ourselves into oblivion. And it seems we can never agree to disagree but try {and failing} to forge ahead together in anyway we can to create a better world. If that never happens will it really matter who eats what or how it is raised?

Phyllis Elliott's picture
Phyllis Elliott - Nov 18, 2011

I appreciate your exposure of this story, though not your tone. On a weekly basis, defenseless birds are forced into a chute with electric prods, grabbed, and wrestled into a splayed position where a straw is roughly jammed into them to dispense the semen. You are correct that this is not a great way to make a living. The people employed in this process, usually addicts and criminals with noplace else to go, become increasingly desensitized by the pain they inflict day after day.

How are we supposed to bow our heads and give thanks for God's love when we have paid for criminals to torture His creatures?

Phyllis Elliott's picture
Phyllis Elliott - Nov 18, 2011

I appreciate your exposure of this story, though not your tone. On a weekly basis, defenseless birds are forced into a chute with electric prods, grabbed, and wrestled into a splayed position where a straw is roughly jammed into them to dispense the semen. You are correct that this is not a great way to make a living. The people employed in this process, usually addicts and criminals with noplace else to go, become increasingly desensitized by the pain they inflict day after day.

How are we supposed to bow our heads and give thanks for God's love when we have paid for criminals to torture His creatures?

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