Not the farmers.
Just four companies process the lion's share of meat. Critics say that means high prices for consumers and low prices for ranchers.
Flush with demand, meat processors are walking away from wild game.
Some believe brisket's move up the popularity chain began a little more than a decade ago.
Representatives are pushing for an overhaul of the $213 billion sector, to be discussed during a committee hearing Wednesday.
The industry has had to change how it prepares products, pivoting from places like restaurants and arenas to grocery stores.
Pork supplies are down about 40% since mid-March in the U.S., but pork shipments to China have quadrupled in that same time period.
Shutting down just one or two of those plants can take out 10% of the meat supply.