The resurgence of Y2K fashion has been on trend for a while now: low rise jeans, wired headphones, bucket hats and so on. But plenty of brands are failing at capturing the favor of Gen Z consumers.

“Plus-size women make up more than half the market, and yet, plus-size clothes only make up 19% of all apparel on the market,” says Elizabeth Segran, senior staff writer at Fast Company.

Apparel sales are up lately. But the kind of clothing many people want to wear has changed because of the pandemic.

“Companies might have to choose a side,” says our China correspondent Jennifer Pak, “use Xinjiang cotton or be locked out of the world’s second-largest economy.”

With clothing sales way down, there are not a lot of good options.