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Features by Richard Core

<em>Baksheesh</em> . . . or Bribery?

One of my first encounters with the particularities of Egyptian culture ... A driver met us at the airport. When he brought his car from the...

Asking for Directions

As far as I can tell, very few people use maps in Egypt. Point to the Ace Club in Ma’adi on a map, and you’ll get a blank stare from your cab...

On crossing the street in Cairo

Crossing the street in Cairo is an act of pure faith. An estimated 3 million cars clog the streets, and there are no traffic laws to speak of. ...

No place for a woman

"No, I can't take you there," Yusra, my Iraqi translator told me. "It's not acceptable." I wanted to go to one of the coffeeshops in Amman's...

Naming conventions

When I was traveling in Jordan, I didn't always tell people where I was really from. But when I did, it inevitably seemed like they had relatives...

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